Small Wordly Adventures

Cruising the Caribbean

Posted on May 31, 2009. Filed under: Travel | Tags: Bahamas, Caribbean, diving, Exuma Cays, Harbour island, Nassau, Rockhouse, scuba diving, sharks |

Just back from a 2-week holiday in the sunny Bahamas! Along with a nice glowing tan, I have many once in a lifetime memories to go with it.

My first week was spent on the a large liveaboard boat called the Aquacat. Boarding the boat at Hurricane Hole Marina on a sunny breezy day after touring the massive albeit cheesy Atlantis resort nearby, I met the friendly crew and dumped my bags and diving gear. It was a spacious comfortable 3-story boat with rooms and a dive deck at the bottom, al fresco deck and living/dining room with TV and panoramic views on the next floor, and an open-air deck up top for more viewing pleasure purposes as well as the captain’s room towards the bow. The 8 day 7 night trip was exhilarating, as we cruised out into the deep sea you can’t help being awed by the crystal blue, turquoise and deep blue patches of majestic sea water. Though the coral diversity and life didn’t compare to the reefs of tropical havens in SE Asia or the Red Sea, there was the promise of bigger things. The shark dive was one of a kind, we jumped into shark-infested waters with hesitation but ended up being amongst the most beautiful creatures in the world, splendid Caribbean reef sharks. Then there were the enormous groupers who had fouler attitudes than the sharks, all biting at the huge chumsicle (a ball of smelly fish guts used for the feed) in a natural pecking order. Smaller fish like amberjacks would feed on the bits that floated away from the bigger fish. Though I felt slightly uneasy each time one of the graceful sharks swam past me, over, under, on the side, and eyed me with their predator-like eyes, it was clear that we were not food and they were simply curious. It’s when the reef sharks are gone when there’s food in the water that needs to make you worried, that means a bigger shark is in the area. The last thing you want is an aggressive bull shark or tiger shark making it’s way over. Apparently, it has only happened once to our crew members, but once is plenty!

Then there were other dives, with some of the highlights being loggerhead and hawksbill turtles, graceful eagle rays, nurse sharks and stingrays. There are too many creatures to mention. There were also unique drift dives like the ‘washing machine’ where the tides all come together and make you swirl through the ocean like a washing machine, what a ride! Your dive watch and computer will go ballistic, but the shallow depths keep you out of harms way. A few of us did drift snorkeling as well, and saw more things than an actual dive! Reef sharks, eagle rays, a school of barracuda, green turtles.. proving that in shallow water, you don’t really need all the equipment, and it can be quite liberating! Back on the boat we were visited by a group of pilot whales, and on another day, dancing dolphins jumping up in the horizon. Try to catch the infamous ‘green flash’ that is seen in the Bahamas out on the horizon at sunset, only on the clearest days. Apparently some had seen it towards the first days of the trip, but unfortunately, I missed it. The diving, showering, wearing our wetsuits and taking them off for the 3-5 times a day we took the plunge would make us have an extremely healthy appetite. Our chef would have a very American buffet of fattening foods awaiting us every meal – buffalo wings, pizza, taco pie, ribs, bacon and always some salad and carb-filled dishes to round it all out. At the end, and for snacking purposes, there was always fresh fruit and some tasty soft and chewy cookies. I believe we all gained some weight on the trip. Maybe it helped with our buoyancy.

Besides diving we would take trips out to various islands, as we traveled all over the Exuma Cays. One isolated beach towards Little San Salvador left me speechless, the water was various grades of clear and striking turquoise and blue with large stretches of white sand underneath.

After a tiring dive trip, I said my goodbyes and detoured to Harbour Island for rest and relaxation at a treasure of a boutique hotel called the Rockhouse owned by gracious hosts Wallace and Don, a place visited by many a celebrity. Harbour Island itself has local Bahamian charm and pretty nooks of nature and scenery. Once you rent a golf cart you are free to explore the little island and visit Valentine’s Harbor where many luxury yachts and boats park. The restaurant there makes a nice angus burger with fries and a massive club sandwich, and the view off the dock makes it a nice lunch spot. Go all the way down that bayside road and around the bend, and you can park at the left corner and walk to the beautiful lone tree for a photo op when the tide is low. India Hicks took shots from this infamous tree, but the hurricanes of years past have damaged it so some branches have broken off. Some notable restaurants are at the Coral Sands hotel which was also used for a Sports Illustrated shoot in the past, Pink Sands hotel, and The Landing with it’s colonial charm and little bar with red walls. Then of course back at the Rockhouse where I stayed, is a hotel with the view of the bay which is gorgeous at sunset. The food is fresh, healthy and absolutely delicious. At the bar, have a go at the Gumbay Smash or some Rum punch, true to Caribbean style.

Back in Nassau, where things are more commercialized and have lost any colonial charm that might have potentially been restored, the pace of life is slow, so don’t expect timely service. The only source of income is tourism so it felt like I was being ripped off left, right and center. The times I had to take a taxi cost me a pretty penny, “That’ll be $25″ says the taxi driver after the 5 minute ride. Not to mention the expectation of a tip for the short and quiet/non-informative trip. Be sure to head to Arawak Cay for what’s known as the Fish Fry for some tasty cracked lobster, grouper fritters, conch fritters, conch salad, and sweet daiquiris. There are a few restaurants but Twin Brothers, with it’s colorful tables and beach hut umbrellas will live up to its reputation. The cracked lobster was mouth-watering and the fruity daiquiris hit the spot.

Though the Caribbean is easily seen as a paradise of sorts, and that wouldn’t be entirely wrong, there is also the tourist-trap side of it which can leave you with a slightly bitter aftertaste. I recommend it for some unique diving which is also accessible for those living in the continental US, with some of the 700 islands that make up the Bahamas sure to be beautiful and honeymoon-worthy. Although the capital, Nassau, is not as charming as expected and didn’t capitalize on its would-be colonial charm, Harbour Island made up for it and was a nice retreat. All in all, an expensive trip that’s worth it if you’re going diving or need to make it out there for a friend’s wedding. The Bahamas are blessed with amazing water and true natural beauty. Given the rest of the pitfalls, a week and a half is just right.

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